The Science of Scent: How Mane’s Acquisition Could Change Fragrance in Skincare

Hook: Why fragrance in skincare still feels like guesswork — and how that could change

If you’ve ever loved the way a moisturizer smells one week and broken out or flared the next, you’re not alone. Many beauty shoppers want pleasant-smelling products but fear fragrance allergy, irritation, or unpredictable emotional effects. As of 2026, that tension — between sensory delight and safety — is exactly what the industry is trying to solve.

The Mane Group acquisition: what happened and why it matters

In late 2025 Mane Group acquired Belgian biotech ChemoSensoryx Biosciences to accelerate what the company calls “sensory innovation.” The move pairs a century-old fragrance and flavor house with a specialized team that maps how smells, tastes and chemesthetic sensations are detected at the molecular level. Mane said the acquisition will extend its capabilities in receptor-based screening, predictive modelling and the design of fragrances that trigger targeted emotional and physiological responses.

Mane said the deal will enable it to deepen its scientific understanding of how smells, tastes and sensations are perceived.

This is more than corporate positioning. The acquisition signals a real pivot toward chemosensory science — the study of how molecules interact with olfactory, gustatory and trigeminal receptors — and how those interactions can be used to design safer, more predictable scent experiences in personal care.

From receptors to routines: the science in plain (but precise) terms

Olfactory and trigeminal receptors — why they matter for skincare

The human sense of smell is mediated by hundreds of olfactory receptors (ORs), specialised G-protein-coupled receptors first characterised in the 1990s. Those receptors translate tiny chemical differences into distinct percepts — fruity, woody, green, or floral. Separately, trigeminal receptors and transient receptor potential (TRP) channels detect chemesthetic sensations like cooling (menthol), heat (capsaicin), stinging or “freshness.”

Crucially for skincare, many olfactory receptors are not only present in the nose. Researchers have found certain ORs expressed in skin cells — keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts — where they can influence cellular behaviours like migration, proliferation and sebum production. That creates a two-way opportunity: fragrances can be engineered to shape perception (how something smells) and biology (how skin responds).

Real-world receptor biology: the Sandalore example

A widely discussed case in receptor-based skin research is Sandalore, a synthetic sandalwood odorant that activates the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 in keratinocytes. Studies have shown Sandalore stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and accelerates wound healing in vitro — a clear illustration that scent molecules can produce measurable effects beyond aroma. For brands and formulators, this translates into the idea that selecting specific odorants can be more targeted than simply adding a pleasant-smelling oil.

How ChemoSensoryx’s receptor-based research can change fragrance in skincare

Bringing receptor mapping and predictive modelling to fragrance design enables several step-changes in how fragrances are created, tested and delivered inside skincare products.

1) Sensory-targeted formulations — match scent to mood and outcome

Instead of designing a single “lavender” cream that simply smells nice, brands can aim for targeted sensory outcomes: a fragrance profile that activates OR combinations linked to relaxation for a night cream, or an energising profile for a morning serum. Because chemosensory research can link receptor activation patterns to neural and physiological responses, formulations can be tuned toward an intended effect (calming, awakening, appetite-neutral) rather than only a subjective “pleasantness.”

2) Personalized scent profiles and predictive modelling

Not everyone perceives scent the same way. Genetic differences in OR genes, cultural conditioning and previous exposures all shape preference. Using receptor-based screening and predictive AI models, companies can develop personalization engines that suggest or blend fragrance microdoses tailored to a user’s sensory genotype, preferences and tolerance — all while minimising allergenic components.

3) Smarter delivery: blooming, controlled release and odour control

ChemoSensoryx’s platform supports technologies like blooming (a fragrance that evolves over time), microencapsulation for controlled release, and odour-neutralising strategies that limit unwanted interactions with body chemistry. That means products can be engineered to release key notes gradually or when triggered (skin temperature, friction, time of day), creating a more stable sensory experience and reducing the need for high absolute fragrance concentrations that increase sensitization risk.

4) Trigeminal modulation for functional sensations

Trigeminal receptors mediate sensations like cooling, tingling or spiciness. Receptor-based research lets formulators modulate those chemesthetic effects predictably — for instance, creating a “fresh” clean feeling that doesn’t rely on high menthol loads (which can irritate) or using lower concentrations of TRP agonists combined with supportive odorants to preserve efficacy and reduce sting.

Practical benefits for consumers and brands

• More predictable sensory outcomes: When fragrances are designed against receptor profiles and validated with predictive models, the end-user experience becomes more consistent.
• Lower allergen exposure: Targeted design can reduce reliance on high concentrations of common fragrance allergens by using alternative odorants that produce the same receptor activation patterns.
• Novel functional claims grounded in biology: Products could legitimately claim mood-supporting or sensory-regulating effects backed by receptor-level studies and clinical testing.
• Better personalization: Consumers could choose or be recommended scents that align with genetic predisposition, prior reactions and personal preference.

Allergy and safety: the limitations and real risks to watch

Receptor-based design is powerful, but it doesn’t eliminate risk. Fragrance allergy, sensitization and irritant contact dermatitis remain real concerns — especially for leave-on products.

Key allergy considerations

• Known fragrance allergens: Classic sensitizers (linalool, limonene, eugenol, isoeugenol, hydroxycitronellal, etc.) still exist. Reformulation toward receptor-targeted odorants must account for cross-reactivity and residual allergen content.
• Sensitization risk with novel odorants: New molecules designed to target receptors still need toxicology, repeated insult patch testing (RIPT) and human repeat exposure studies. Novel does not equal non-allergenic.
• Trigeminal overstimulation: Potent TRP agonists can cause burning, stinging or neurogenic inflammation — carefully dose and test these actives in sensitive-skin cohorts.
• Phototoxicity: Some natural citrus constituents (bergapten in bergamot oil) are phototoxic. Any receptor-targeted natural extracts must be screened for phototoxicity before inclusion in daytime leave-on products.

Regulatory and transparency requirements in 2026

By 2026 regulatory attention on fragrance safety and transparency has intensified. Industry bodies such as IFRA continue to issue guidelines while regions push for mandatory disclosure of priority allergen lists. Consumers now expect ingredient-level transparency, and personalized scent services must navigate data privacy laws when using genetic or preference data. Brands using receptor-based claims will need robust evidence: in vitro receptor assays are useful, but clinical endpoints and human sensory trials remain essential for substantiation.

Actionable advice: what shoppers should do now

If you’re shopping in 2026 and curious about receptor-designed fragrances, here are practical steps to reduce risk and get the benefits:

1. Check “fragrance-free” vs “unscented”: “Fragrance-free” typically means no intentional fragrance ingredients; “unscented” can still contain masking agents. If you have sensitivity, choose fragrance-free.
2. Patch test methodically: Apply a small amount to your inner forearm for 48–72 hours. Look for delayed reactions. Repeat with a product’s full formulation if needed, not just the perfume compound.
3. Start with rinse-off products: If you want to try a scented product, begin with cleansers or shampoos where exposure time is short before moving to leave-on serums/creams.
4. Request ingredient transparency: Brands working with receptor tech should list the fragrance components or provide an allergen declaration. If that’s missing, reach out to customer service before purchase.
5. Keep a reaction diary: Note when reactions occur and the product used, including order of use and any layering; this helps clinicians identify culprits later.

Actionable advice: what brands and formulators should do now

For brands ready to adopt receptor-based fragrance innovation, the steps below will help you translate chemosensory science into safe, market-ready products.

• Integrate receptor screening early: Use in vitro assays to identify odorants that activate desired OR/TRP profiles before moving to full formulation.
• Prioritise low-allergen design: Seek alternative odorants that mimic receptor activation patterns without relying on known sensitizers; validate cross-reactivity.
• Run human sensory and safety trials: Combine neurophysiological readouts (heart rate variability, EEG where relevant) with dermatological endpoints and standard safety testing (RIPT, patch tests).
• Document and substantiate claims: If you claim mood modulation, relaxation or other functional effects, support the claim with clinical data obtained on the finished product, not just receptor assays.
• Make transparency part of the product: Provide fragrance ingredient lists and guidance for sensitive users; consider offering low-fragrance or microdosed options.
• Respect privacy in personalization: If offering genotype-based scent profiles, obtain explicit consent and follow data minimization and security best practices.

2026 trends and what to expect next

As receptor science moves from lab to launch, several trends are emerging this year:

• AI + receptor maps: Machine learning models that predict odor percepts from receptor activation profiles are speeding up formulation cycles and enabling virtual sensory prototyping.
• Wearable scent devices: Scent microdiffusers and patch-based microdosing synchronized to circadian signals are becoming commercially viable, enabling timed delivery of mood-supporting aromas.
• Telehealth for fragrance reactions: Dermatology platforms now offer guided patch test interpretation and personalized product recommendations for fragrance-allergic patients; see platforms focused on clinician support and creator/clinician workflows.
• Microbiome-aware scent design: Research in 2024–2026 showed that skin microbiota alter emitted volatiles; formulators are beginning to consider microbe–fragrance interactions to reduce unpleasant malodors and unpredictable scent changes over time.
• Ethical and regulatory scrutiny: As scents take on functional claims, expect closer examination from regulators and stronger requirements for human data.

Predictions through 2028

By 2028 we expect receptor-informed fragrance systems to be a mainstream differentiator: targeted microdosed perfumes, skin-first olfactory therapeutics for sleep and stress, and expanded allergen-safe libraries of odorants used by major CPG brands. Privacy and safety frameworks will mature alongside these products — necessary guardrails for personalized scent services.

Practical takeaways: a checklist for safe sensory innovation

• For consumers: Choose fragrance-free if sensitive; patch test; prefer rinse-off first; ask for ingredient transparency; consult dermatology for persistent reactions.
• For brands: Validate receptor-based designs with human data; prioritise low-allergen alternatives; disclose fragrance components; follow regulatory guidance and ethical data use.
• For formulators: Use controlled-release tech and receptor screening to reduce overall fragrance load while preserving desired sensory effects.

Final thoughts: opportunity with responsibility

The Mane–ChemoSensoryx combination represents a major step toward what we can call evidence-led scent design in skincare. Chemosensory science unlocks the potential to create products that do more than smell good — they can be tuned for mood, texture perception and even subtle biological outcomes. But with that power comes responsibility: brands must pair innovation with rigorous safety testing, transparent communication and respect for consumer diversity and privacy.

If you’re a shopper who loves scent but worries about sensitivity, the next few years should bring safer, smarter options: microdosed, receptor-validated fragrances and clearer labeling that helps you make confident choices. If you’re a brand, the path is clear — invest in receptor screening, clinical validation and transparent communication to turn sensory innovation into long-term consumer trust.

Call to action

Want guidance on navigating receptor-informed fragrances or need help evaluating a product’s safety profile? Our team at cureskin.online curates evidence-based updates on chemosensory science, fragrance in skincare and allergy-safe product picks for 2026. Sign up for our newsletter for hands-on checklists, product reviews and expert interviews — or reach out for a personalized ingredient review to see whether a scented product is a safe match for your skin.

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